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1. Beretta 686 Instruction Manual: Software Free Download 7 0
2. Beretta 686 Owners Manual
3. Beretta 686 Instruction Manual: Software Free Download For Pc

Owner Manuals 686 Download Denon AVR-686 PDF Manuals for free or View Online. Browse 1 Denon AVR-686 manuals for free PDF download: User's Manual. PDAs & Smartphones A626. ASUSTeK COMPUTER User Manual PDA A626, A686, A696. Pages: 0 Saves: 0. See Prices Buy or Upgrade. 686 offers a full line of snowboarding and technical winter.

Despite this Boards strong spam filtering function, some Spam registrations do sneak through. I need an inkling that you are a human being not a Spam Bot tagging onto key words. Also please do not use a business name as your User Name. Thank you. A friend bought a used 686 White Onyx that had some scratches in the 'plastic' Beretta finish.

I stripped it, sanded to 600 grit, stained it with dark walnut oil based stain. After I applied two coats of Tung Oil/Mineral Spirts sealer and the first finish coat my friend wanted to apply some of the finish coats. He put on aanother 8 hand rubbed coats of the Formsby Tung Oil low gloss finish. The wood was hung in a drying box after every application (drying box was a caedboard dish pack with a lamp inside with a 60 watt incandescent bulb.

He got a little aggressive with his application of oil and there were some cloudy spots. I fixed the cloudy spots by buffing with #0000 steel wool followed by rubbing out with a muslin dish towel. Two coats of Gunstock wax finished the job. Here are a few pictures of the finished product. Buried underneath a hellaciously tough to remove Beretta Epoxy like finish was a pretty piece of wood with a fair amount of figure. The Jamesons 12 year Whiskey is tasting pretty good!

I'm looking for more summer proects. Very nice job. My wife recently suggested I buy another 20 SxS. My thinking is that I've rubbed enough memories into my current guns that I'd just as soon take any that need a little sprucing up and have them refinished, metal and wood. A first rate job might cost as much as a new gun, but the heart and soul of the guns will remain. Getting them spruced up will in return show them that I appreciate the years of reliable service they have given me Isn't it amazing some of the nice wood manufacturers are covering up with some of those cheap, floozy looking finishes? Thanks for the description!

Beretta 686 Instruction Manual: Software Free Download 7 0

I've been thinking about this project for my 686 SP-I can't stand the glossy epoxy finish. I've never done any work on a gun, and this seems like an accessible project. A few questions: 1) What stripper works for this type of finish? 2) How do you get the finish out of the checkering? 3) Does the checkering need to be re-cut? 4) Any special tools/knowledge required for disassembly and reassembly? I'm assuming that removing the stock isn't rocket science and that a look at the manual (or just removing the recoil pad) will make it self-evident.

Thanks for the description! I've been thinking about this project for my 686 SP-I can't stand the glossy epoxy finish. I've never done any work on a gun, and this seems like an accessible project. A few questions: 1) What stripper works for this type of finish?

2) How do you get the finish out of the checkering? 3) Does the checkering need to be re-cut? 4) Any special tools/knowledge required for disassembly and reassembly? I'm assuming that removing the stock isn't rocket science and that a look at the manual (or just removing the recoil pad) will make it self-evident. Dave Having refinished more than one Beretta/Browning factory high gloss epoxy finished stocks - your questions: 1.

No stripper does a really good job without multiple applications and some scraping especially where end grain is exposed like along the face of the pistol grip etc. The stripper will get the finish out of the checkering better than it will out of the rest of the stock because of the amount of surface area exposed in the checkering. The checkering does not need to be recut. Scrub/wipe the stock, inletting and checkering with soft brushes, soft toothbrushes etc. And warm soapy water to remove stripper. Then while the stock has somewhat dried but before the residual stripper has hardened wipe the stock with acetone and scrub the checkering with a soft toothbrush wetted with acetone to remove all residual stripper. Please note: Only use acetone in well ventilated areas.

Every Beretta stock bolt that I've encountered can be easily removed with a 6 mm hex stud in a 3/8' socket, a ratchet extension and a ratchet wrench. Citoris' have a slotted bolt head that any 'long reach' heavy duty screwdriver can remove. If to tight to remove by hand a pair of vise-grip pliers on the screwdriver shank always provides the necessary leverage.

Having said all this high gloss epoxy finishes can be a real bear to remove but a lot of patience, multiple applications of stripper and some judicious scraping ( I have some Brownell scrapers but also use the non-serrated edge of a discarded butter knife) will eventually do the trick. Hope this helps. Hoppe's no.10. Thanks for the description! I've been thinking about this project for my 686 SP-I can't stand the glossy epoxy finish. I've never done any work on a gun, and this seems like an accessible project. A few questions: 1) What stripper works for this type of finish?

Beretta 686 Owners Manual

2) How do you get the finish out of the checkering? 3) Does the checkering need to be re-cut?

4) Any special tools/knowledge required for disassembly and reassembly? I'm assuming that removing the stock isn't rocket science and that a look at the manual (or just removing the recoil pad) will make it self-evident. Dave I pretty much agree with Ruger 1. I use 'Citristrip' to remove the finish. I spray on the first coat and let it sit overnight. Then use a 'Green Weenie' nylon scrub pad to remove all the finish i can.

On the Beretta I just finished it took two coats. Biggest problem most people have is getting too anxious to start removing the finish. Let the goop work. An alternative to Citristrip is to use Acetone. I've used it to remove finish and oil from oil soaked stocks. I use a covered baking pan, put the stock and forend into the pan, put a weight onto them and then cover with acetone, then cover the pan.

After 48 hiours the oil and finish will be gone, rinse with denatured alcohol by soaking overnight in the same manner. Wipe with mineral spirits on a terry cloth towel. Then start your sanding process. I've never had to use acetone to remove residue from the checkering, I use a brass bristle brush and mineral spirits. 'I'm assuming that removing the stock isn't rocket science and that a look at the manual (or just removing the recoil pad) will make it self-evident.' Use a Phillips Screwdriver #2 bit lubricated with Vaseline to prevent damage to the recoil pad to remove the two pad retaining screws Following paragraph from Ruger1 is spot on: 'Every Beretta stock bolt that I've encountered can be easily removed with a 6 mm hex stud in a 3/8' socket, a ratchet extension and a ratchet wrench.

Citoris' have a slotted bolt head that any 'long reach' heavy duty screwdriver can remove. If to tight to remove by hand a pair of vise-grip pliers on the screwdriver shank always provides the necessary leverage.'

Specialty Manuals: Owner's manuals for selected Beretta firearms are available on our website. Please check for the manual you need. If you are looking for Sako products and accessories please go to to see manuals.

Beretta 686 Instruction Manual: Software Free Download For Pc

Tikka rifle manuals can be found by visiting. You can also obtain an owner's manual by calling 1-800-BERETTA and listening for the appropriate prompt for a manual request. Thank you for your interest. If you don't have, you'll need to install it to view and print your product guides.