• Hydraulic Cylinders Manual Pump
• Iseki Hydraulic Manual Pumps Replacement
• Iseki Hydraulic Manual Pumps For Sale

Manual hydraulic pump / compact / oil / high-pressure PDSA series. Make a request. Manual hydraulic pump. Pressure: 700 bar. PDSA Series are handy and easy-to-use pumps with high oil flow rates to operate a wide range of hydraulic cylinders or tools.

Hi all, Just bought a little TX2160 mainly to do some mowing at home. I bought it as a non runner that had sat around for about 5 years, I have managed to get the engine running and replaced all the oil & filters but I've got a problem with the 3pt hitch. The hitch raises and lowers as it should but as soon as I put some weight on it, it won't lift. With full revs, it seems to have a bit more power but it still won't lift anything i.e me!

I've cleaned out the suction filter and put in 80W oil but no joy. I suspect the pump is probably ok but I can't test it at the moment, if I take off the high pressure line and crank the engine then fluid does come out ok. I've attempted to remove the top hydraulic case above the gearbox to see if there is anything caught in there but I can't seem to get it out.

• The handle parts of hydraulic manual pump is the manual lever and press handle. By two pins and a plunger connected with the pump. Manual force acting on the lever to drive the plunger reciprocates, generate and pressurize the oil pressure inside the hydraulic manual pump. In the back seat or tank of pump fitted grease and air-bleed hole.
• The Bolens G174 mechanicals are generally the same as an an Iseki TX2160/TX1500F - built in the same factory,same HP, gearbox, axles, diffs, pumps, linkage etc- the only major difference is some of the early series to maybe c.1981 Bolens use a K75 2cyl Mitsubishi engine whereas the Iseki mainly uses a KB3 3cyl Mitsubishi.

I've undone all the bolts and the head moves about 0.5cm but no further, am I missing something?? I've ordered a service manual but that may not arrive for a week or so. Any thoughts greatly appreciated. See if the link below works for you - came across this when I was looking for a parts manual for my own tractor. Round about page 105 is the lift arm unit, looking at the diagram may just give you the info you need.

Hydraulic Cylinders Manual Pump

I just lifted mine off my TX1500 - looks to be exactly the same unit. Have you taken off the distribution/valve block - there is a bolt under that. Also one under the top-link bracket if you missed that. Mine still took a little bit of persuasion to come off once all the bolts and nuts were free.

Iseki Hydraulic Manual Pumps Replacement

Thanks dantz, If you happen to have a copy of the service manual too then that would be great? I've ordered it but that's not going to arrive soon. I've managed to get the case off the gearbox now and can't see anything obvious that's causing the issue. I'll clean everything up and see if that makes a difference. The pressure relief valve could be an issue as it looks to me as though it's stuck open. Would that cause the lower pressure to the hitch?

I would have thought that the hitch would drop when I turn the engine off if it was flowing back out the valve? Don't have the service manual, for some reason no copies online yet despite being 30+ yr old tractors. If the pressure relief valve is passing then that is your problem, only briefly looked at it on mine, I'm sure its not isolated from the lift piston, so the hydraulic piston will only develop enough pressure as a the flow restriction through the safety valve allows. It will be enough to move the arms with no load and probably hold under there own weight. You have to ask the question why is it stuck open though, so if you manage to reseat it, then be careful as you load up again.

If the lift arms are up, you have fluid in the 3pt cylinder. When you lower the lever to lower the arms, you allow the fluid to drain back to tank. The descent knob will control the drop rate. If the relief is stuck open, then some of the fluid will bypass.

If you have a loader, then install a 3000 psi hyd gage in a tee in the IN port of the FEL valve, and then you can monitor and trouble shoot the hyd system. Anytime you use the loader, you should see the pressure developed by the loader cylinders.

If no loader, then install a tee with hyd gage after the pump where you can see it. With the gage installed, anytime the tractor is using hyd, you will see the pressure on the gage.

So if you pull the handle for 3pt, you will see some pressure, and when you max out the 3pt cyl, you should see relief pressure. Check and clean the relief valve. Any air in the system will self purge as you use the hydraulics. If the lift arms falls over time, or you can't build up pressure, then the seals on the 3pt cylinder could be worn or brittle. Thanks for the help so far. Bit of an update but still no joy from it at the moment.

Iseki Hydraulic Manual Pumps For Sale

There is no bleed screw on this model, I think it purges as it goes as JJ has suggested. I've cleaned the spool valve and the relief valve too. The relief is working properly I think, when it's wound out the hitch does not raise but when wound in a bit it lifts the hitch but again, not when i put any weight on it.

I don't want to close the valve too much as i don't want to risk the pressure getting too high. Is there any way of knowing how to set this without a gauge?

JJ the hitch does not drop over time, if i leave it overnight they are still raised so I've ruled out the cylinder now and suspicion is now aimed at the pump being clogged up. I will try and order a gauge next week as I think I'm stuck without one unless there is an easy way to work things out without one? One thing to add, earlier when I put everything back together, it started to raise the hitch with weight on it for about 10 seconds before failing again. Not sure if that points to anything?? JJ - I just got hold of a gauge and it's showing around 500 PSI when operating the hitch, does not appear to change when the hitch is raised so I'm still not really sure if the pump is not putting out the pressure or if the relief is open.

Is there any way of telling which is causing the issue? I was going to put a valve after the pressure gauge and slowly close it (not fully) to check if the pump is working or if it's an issue elsewhere.

Other option will be to clean out the suction line incase of a blockage in it. Thoughts appreciated.

More info needed. Did you shut it down and it won't restart or did it shut itself down? If it shut down, was it out of fuel? Have you made certain the water level in the fuel isn't too high ( if it is, at this point you may have big problems). If it shut itself down with fuel in the tank, most likely you have either water or a fuel restriction (plugged filter, wad of gunk in tank outlet). And like GEO says, making it run on starting fluid is a very bad idea. Also if it is getting fuel, you get lots of blue smoke during cranking when there is no start.

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If the smoke isn't there, there is either no fuel or no compression. Can't help you on parts, but I can give a couple of troubleshooting tips. I think you're on the right track, it's probably not getting fuel. Has it run out of fuel lately? If you got air in the fuel lines, you'll have to bleed them. The problem is when the fuel pump discharges into the line, the air compresses and the injector won't fire. (air will compress, liquid won't, with air in the line the pump can't build enough pressure to lift the injector) The usual method is to crack the fuel line at each injector and crank until you get a solid stream of fuel.

You might want to do that anyway, to make sure the pump is working. If that's not it, check to make sure the fuel lines to the pump are clear, the filter is clean and flowing freely, and there are no air leaks. If that's not it, either the pump is shot or the timing is off, and I don't have any pointers there. Hope this helps a little.